All About TNR (Trap-Neuter-Return)

Animal rescue has always been a cause near and dear to my heart. My journey with TNR began many years ago before I had kids.

TNR stands for Trap-Neuter-Return and refers to a humane method of trapping, altering, and returning feral cats to their natural habitats.

What is TNR?

TNR stands for Trap-Neuter-Return and refers to a humane method of trapping, altering, vaccinating and returning feral cats to their natural habitats. It’s the most effective method for reducing the number of feral and stray cats. Many communities have low cost spay and neuter clinics, and some vets are willing to fix feral cats at a discount.

Feral cats that have been spayed and neutered are ear tipped, which is a universal sign of a “fixed” cat. While the cat is under anesthesia, the vet will cut off the tip of one ear. Eartips are readily visible from a distance, making it easy to identify a cat as spayed or neutered.

How my journey with TNR began

I was standing in line at the Harris Teeter on East Bay Street in downtown Charleston way back in 2007, and heard the cashier say to a co-worker, “I saw that cat again this morning.” Of course, I just had to ask, “What cat?” They told me there was a mama cat with kittens living under the deck on the front of the store. Sure enough, I peeked under the deck on my way out and saw a tiny kitten quickly dart off.

I couldn’t get it out of my mind. And I couldn’t bear to not try to help. I’m constantly shocked, even to this day, how many people turn a blind eye to animals in need. I am proud to say I’m not one of them.

Pet Helpers, a local animal shelter, was in the process of starting a TNR group. This was the first time I’d heard about TNR, and I have to admit that at first I was not onboard with the thought of releasing the cats after spaying/neutering. I mistakenly thought that all cats could be domesticated and adopted. In reality, kittens can usually be socialized, but most feral adult cats are not comfortable with human contact. It’s best to have them fixed, vaccinated and returned to their regular territory where a caregiver can provide food on an ongoing basis.

I partnered with another Pet Helpers volunteer, who was experienced with TNR, to catch the Harris Teeter cats. We started on Labor Day weekend and caught the first kitten quickly who we named Harry.

Harry

A couple weeks later we rounded up his sister who we called Lucy. A family with two young children adopted them together.

Lucy

In October, we caught two more kittens that we named Ellen and Teeter. Carol Linville, the founder of Pet Helpers, fostered both of them. Carol is a true angel to animal rescue, and it was an honor to get to know her. A girl named Jennifer adopted Ellen, and she and I became friends. We’re still in touch all these years later. I can attest to the fact that Ellen lived a pampered life! A teacher at the school where my dad used to work adopted Teeter, who was a handsome orange tabby.

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Ellen

Last but not least was Hope. She was a hard one to catch and we didn’t get her until early November. As you can see from these pictures she was not a tiny kitten anymore. We had concerns that it may be hard to socialize her after being “in the wild” for several months, but she warmed up quickly, and found her forever home.

Hope

In the midst of all these kitten rescues, we also trapped and fixed five adult cats. It took from Labor Day weekend to mid-Dec to trap a total of five kittens and five adults. I was so proud of the fact that we made a difference in the lives of these cats. It was worth all the time and effort invested. Those five kittens all lived long and happy lives with families who loved them.

Over the years, I’ve been involved with several other TNR efforts and have become an expert on how to humanely trap, fix and release stray and feral cats. I’m sharing this information here today in hopes that more people will get involved and do their part to help with animal overpopulation.

The benefits of TNR

Obviously the biggest benefit of TNR is reducing the feral cat population. Since they can’t reproduce, the size of the colony shrinks over time. TNR also reduces nuisance behavior, such as fighting and spraying. The cats generally are healthier and less likely to spread diseases since they get vaccinated as part of the TNR process. The cats continued presence helps keep rodents under control.

To be successful at TNR, all it takes is a humane trap, some food, and a lot of patience!

How to prepare for trapping cats

Some spay/neuter clinics and vet office’s will loan you a trap, usually for a refundable deposit. If you want to purchase a trap, I recommend using the Havahart 1045 Live Animal Two-Door Humane Trap. It has a door on both sides, which makes it easier to place food in the back of the trap, and also makes it easier for veterinary personnel to get the cat out of the trap.

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To prepare for trapping, get the cats on a consistent feeding schedule. Put out food at the same time and place each day. Withhold food the day before trapping as cats will be more likely to go in the trap if they’re extra hungry. Trapping the night before surgery is ideal so the cat is in the trap for a minimal amount of time. Around dusk is the best time to trap. Never trap after dark as you’ll surely end up with a possum or a racoon. Trust me! Make sure you’ve made an appointment with a vet or spay/neuter clinic before you trap. If you trap a cat and release him or her, it is very unlikely that you will be able to catch the cat again.

How to set a trap for TNR

Set the trap on a level surface at the cat’s normal feeding time and place. Line the bottom of the trap with newspaper. Cats generally don’t like walking on wire surfaces and this will prevent their paws from falling through the wires when you pick the trap up. Make sure the newspaper doesn’t extend beyond the trip plate as it could prevent the door from closing properly.

Place some smelly food on a paper towel or paper plate in the very back of the trap. Canned tuna is perfect for this! Leave a trail of tiny bits of food or juice along the bottom of the trap to encourage the cat to go inside.

After the trap is baited, open the door by pushing the top of the door in and pulling the bottom of the door upward. Most traps have a small hook that you can use to attach the door to the top of the trap. The hook holds the door in an open position, which also raises the trip plate. The plate is very sensitive so when the cat steps on it, it will cause the hook to release the door and close the trap.

Cover most of the trap with a sheet, leaving only the open door uncovered. This makes it look less intimidating to the cat, and also helps keep him calm after trapping.

Never leave the trap unattended if you’re trapping in a public area. You must stay nearby but out of sight of the cats. Ideally you should be able to see the trap from a distance or be close enough that you can hear the door trip. Then just wait and be patient!

What if the cat won’t go into the trap?

If you have an especially stubborn cat who won’t go in the trap, you might have to use the trap as a feeding station for several days in order to build his trust. Use a zip tie to secure the trap door so it won’t trip. Place the food right outside of the trap’s entrance on the first day. On the next day, place the food right inside the door, and keep moving it in a few more inches each day until you have the cat eating in the back of the trap. You’ll be more likely to catch him once he thinks he can eat and leave.

What to expect when you trap a cat

A trapped cat will likely be agitated and may thrash around inside the trap. Although this can be concerning, resist the urge to release him. Remember what you are doing will help him in the long run. Make sure he’s not ear tipped, or that you haven’t caught someone’s pet or a wild animal by mistake. If you’ve caught an animal you didn’t intend to trap, simply release the animal back to the same area.

Cover the trap completely with the sheet which will help keep him calm. Transport the cat to your holding area, such as a garage or other protected, temperature-controlled area. Place the trap on top of some bricks on wood blocks and put newspapers underneath in case the cat goes to the bathroom. The cat should remain calm and quiet as long as the trap is covered. Do not feed the cat before surgery or try to pet or touch the cat at all.

Recovery for spayed / neutered cats

Keep cats for at least 24 hours after surgery. Always consult with your vet or spay/neuter clinic on how long they should recuperate. Keep the cat in the covered trap, in the protected, temperature controlled holding area for recovery. Open the door just enough to slide some food and water inside the trap. If the cat does not appear to be doing well, take him back to the vet or clinic for an exam before releasing.

If your cat appears to be recovering well after 24 hours, release him in the same place where you trapped him. Keep the trap covered with the sheet until it’s time to release. When you’re ready to release, sit the trap down with the door facing away from you, remove the cover, and open the door. The cat will probably run right out of the trap. If he hesitates, just wait patiently. They want their freedom back and surely won’t stay in there long.

Resume the feeding schedule as usual. The cat will probably disappear for a few days. It’s common for them to lay low after this experience. However, they know where their food source is and will come eat when you’re not around. Clean the trap by spraying it down with bleach and rinsing it off really well.

In closing, I’ll share a picture of 4 kittens I rescued all in one day from under an abandoned house. The poor little one on the right was in serious need of medical attention for an eye infection. The Charleston Animal Society took them in and found good homes for all of them.

My most recent experience with TNR was in my own neighborhood. I’ll share that with you later this week along with directions for making an outdoor cat shelter out of a storage container.

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linda

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